![]() It is not necessary to have slopes in the structure of the bookshelf, nor in the shelf sections. As long as no component of this force extends outside of the rectangular structure of the bookshelf, these objects will make the bookshelf more stable, not less. When objects are placed on the bookshelf, they will exert force on the bookshelf in a vertical manner. If not, adjust the base of the bookshelf to keep the structure perpendicular to local gravity. Gravity will not usually push a bookshelf out of plumb, disregarding earthquake activity for the purposes of this discussion. In order for a bookshelf to topple forwards, it is necessary to have some force applied to the structure. ![]() 6in for the back top to clear and tip.Īnyway, when you're done building it, give it a climb and pull from the top while empty, if it feels like its going to fall, anchor it with screws and ask for forgiveness later. ![]() Tipping from the front bottom means the recess/bookshelf would have to give by. Assuming you got 10ft high walls and your book shelf is 1ft deep. Wood also bends so even if something sits flush in a recess it could be bent out potentially. If the ceiling is some how just drywall in that area (unlikely) this wouldn't work. ![]() Though, they would probably leave more marks than a few screws at the top to be honest. I'd also put wedges on all sides because it's probably not a perfectly shaped recess and you want the bookshelf to not move at all when shaken. Since when it tips, it would strike against the ceiling. If you're fitting it into a recess and it is encased on all 5 sides (ceiling, floor, left side, right side, back wall), you could get away with not anchoring it. I haven't built anything into a recess like you describe so this is conjecture. ![]()
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